Its origins are genuinely disputed, which is unusual for a cake this famous. The most commonly credited version says pastry chef Josef Keller invented it in 1915 at Café Agner near Bonn, inspired by a particularly good cherry harvest that year. Other historians trace it back further, to the Black Forest region of Germany in the 16th century, when chocolate first started appearing in European baking.
The name itself is often misunderstood. Most people assume it's called Black Forest gateau because it comes from the Black Forest region, and while that's not wrong, it's not quite the reason either. It's actually named after Schwarzwälder Kirsch, the cherry brandy distilled specifically in that region, which the cake depends on for its flavour. There's also a folk theory that the colours themselves, dark chocolate, white cream, red cherries, echo the traditional Bollen hat costume worn by women in the region, black dress, white blouse, red pompoms. Nobody can say for certain which story is true, possibly all of them played a part.
It's taken seriously enough in Germany that it now carries EU protected status. Without the specific regional Kirsch, a cake legally cannot be called Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, whatever else is in it.
6 large eggs
200g caster sugar
150g plain flour
50g cocoa powder
50g butter, melted and cooled
2 x 400g tins of pitted morello cherries, drained, juice reserved
60ml kirsch (cherry brandy)
600ml double cream
2 tablespoons icing sugar
Dark chocolate, for shaving
A few whole cherries, to decorate
Heat the oven to 180°C. Grease and line two 20cm round cake tins.
Whisk the eggs and sugar together for a good five minutes, until pale, thick, and roughly tripled in volume, the mixture should hold a ribbon trail on the surface when you lift the whisk. Sift the flour and cocoa powder together, then fold in gently in two or three additions, taking care not to knock the air out. Fold in the melted butter last, just until incorporated.
Divide between the tins and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until springy to the touch and a skewer comes out clean. Cool completely on a wire rack before doing anything else with them.
Once cool, split each sponge in half horizontally, giving four layers in total. Mix the reserved cherry juice with the kirsch and brush it generously over each layer, this is what actually makes the cake, don't be shy with it.
Whip the cream with the icing sugar to soft, billowy peaks, not stiff. Spread a layer of cream over the first sponge layer, scatter over a third of the drained cherries, then repeat with the next two layers. Top with the final sponge layer, then cover the whole cake in the remaining cream.
Finish with dark chocolate shavings pressed generously around the sides and scattered over the top, and arrange a few whole cherries over the centre.
It's better the next day than the day it's made, the kirsch has time to properly soak through the sponge overnight.
