En papillote means in a parcel, and what it really means is that the fish cooks in its own steam. Nothing escapes. All the flavour, all the moisture, stays inside. It is one of the kindest ways to cook fish and one of the most forgiving.
This works for any fish, any cut. A whole salmon is the most impressive version. Fillets, steaks, a piece of cod or sea bass, all good. The method is the same.
Take a sheet of foil large enough to fold over the fish generously and seal properly at the edges. Place the fish in the centre. Drizzle with olive oil and a good splash of white wine. Lay a slice or two of lemon on top, or a few rings of onion, or both. Season well with salt and pepper.
Fold the foil up around the fish and crimp the edges tightly. Nothing should be able to escape. This is the whole point.
For a large whole salmon, cook at 180 degrees for thirty minutes. For individual portions or fillets, fifteen minutes is enough. Do not open the parcel during cooking.
When you open it at the table, and you should open it at the table, the steam that comes out is the whole meal announcing itself. It smells extraordinary.
The liquid left in the foil is the sauce. Spoon it over.
